An undisputed leader in the luxury horological landscape, Rolex has, for decades, ruled the hearts of avid collectors and passionate watch enthusiasts, revered for some of the most coveted creations on the planet.
Every collector who knows and follows Rolex has their own unique perception of the luxury Swiss watchmaking giant, attributing to its omnipresence and having their own ideas about what the best Rolex watches are.
But, did you ever sit down and think twice as to how your favorite Rolex model came into existence? Did you ever try to know what makes a specific Rolex different from the rest, and why exactly is it unique? What makes the watch a classic masterpiece of incredible historical significance, rich heritage, and timeless legacy?
In this guide, we take a tour through nine of the most essential and interesting Rolex watches, tracing their journey from original conception to their place in the modern horological world and their global influence.
The Iconic Origination
The origins of the most revered Swiss watchmaker were not even Swiss. It was surprisingly found in the United Kingdom by a German. Hans Wilsdorf (1861-1960), an orphan raised by his uncles in Kulmbach, Germany, grasped the basics of entrepreneurship and mastered self-sufficiency at an early age.
It was in the 1900s that he began his career in the Swiss watchmaking industry, starting as a clerk at the Cuno Korten watchmaking firm in La Chaux-de-Fonds, responsible for maintaining and ensuring the proper operation of hundreds of pocket watches per day.
It happened in 1905, two years after moving to London, Wilsdorf accompanied another businessman, Alfred Davis, to establish Wilsdorf & Davis. This company was officially listed as the torch-bearer, known as Rolex. Wilsdorf & Davis, based in London’s Hatton Garden commercial district, was founded with a mandate to produce quality, sophisticated, and reliable watches at affordable prices.
The Rolex Title: Beginning of a New Chapter
In 1914, days before the outbreak of the First World War, Wilsdorf changed the company's name to “The Rolex Watch Company Ltd.” He thereby quickly shifted his attention from pocket watches to “wristlets,” or wrist-worn watches.
Wilsdorf, one of the firm believers in watches as a significant commercial asset, would later suggest in his autobiography that the name “Rolex” came to him via a “genie” whispering in his ear. At the same time, they ran a combination of unique alphabetical combinations through his mind, continuing on their way through London in a horse-drawn carriage.
Most would notice and conclude that the name would be easy to spell, with a quick and adaptable pronunciation in many languages, and that it is shorter in length and fits charmingly on a white dial.
Oyster Sync with Perpetual
Immediately after the company's reinvention, Wilsdorf decided to tackle a challenge that had previously plagued watchmakers in the first decades of their existence: manufacturing a case that could withstand immersion in water.
In 1926, Wilsdorf introduced the first Oyster case, the innovative design and a creative display of their engineering marvel, featuring a hermetically sealed caseback quite elegantly displayed encasing a crown that is secured effectively into the side of the case for retaining optimum water-resistance whose traits it reproduced, excluding that, its function was a juxtaposition, featuring the two “shells” of the case fixing snug to keep water outside, rather than inside.
In what could be termed a strategic, celebrity-driven marketing initiative, over the course of years, Rolex took giant strides forward in mastering collaborations. Partnerships that set the roadmap for streamlining its image as a leading luxury watch brand, celebrity endorsements, and garnering unprecedented success. Rolex partnered with Mercedes Gleitze, a British professional swimmer, for a globally publicized campaign.
Gleitze wore a Rolex Oyster on a necklace during her first (unsuccessful) attempt to become the first woman to swim the English Channel. The watch continued ticking when she returned to the shore, giving Rolex the flexibility to tout its waterproofing in a bold, captivating way, a message that was later propagated through subsequent advertising.
When had the "Perpetual" movement begun?
Rolex watches had already established a prominent presence, celebrated for their performance, precision, and reliability. The brand, having won chronometry competitions as early as 1910, had already proved its dominance on the world level.
In 1931, Wilsdorf’s quest for glory and gratification came to fruition, leading to the development of the patented, self-winding movement featuring a weighted mass that winds the mainspring with the wearer’s arm motion.
The natural movement of the wearer kept the watch consistently wound as long as it was worn, earning it the nickname “Perpetual.” Not featuring the first self-winding, or relatively automatic, movement in a wristwatch, the one was patented by the British watchmaker John Harwood in 1923.
It was time for other brands to wake up and smell the coffee; this very development undoubtedly spurred other watch manufacturers to gradually adopt the technology, incorporating it in their own products.
A majority of Rolex’s most popular models fall under the banner of the Oyster Perpetual. Every watch signals culturally rich, traditional, and historically driven choices, acting as the pillar of Rolex’s priceless collections while still carrying their individual charm.
Imbibing Everyday Elegance- Rolex Datejust (1945)
For lovers of discerning choices who relish the breakneck pace of technological advancements and modern design innovation in today’s watch world, Rolex has taken more than a decade to combine the robustness and durability of the Oyster Case with the comfort and convenience of the Perpetual movement, all in one frame.
The Rolex Datejust, unveiled in 1945, featured as the first Rolex to have the now familiar phrase “Oyster Perpetual” inscribed on the dial. The watch was the first to feature the now-ubiquitous date display at 3 o’clock flamboyantly.
It was revered as the first automatic watch with a quick-change function suited explicitly to that display. The first to be elegantly yet subtly and sophisticatedly mounted on Rolex’s now-famous five-row Jubilee bracelet.
It was a few years since then, and in 1948, Rolex rolled out the much-anticipated Datejust with the bubble-shaped “Cyclops” lens, seen above the date aperture, magnifying the date numeral by 2.5 for greater legibility.
Rolex instantly filed a patent on the Cyclops lens in 1952. Necessity being the mother of invention, the legendary Wilsdorf came up with this unique feature after his second wife kept complaining that it was difficult for her to read the date, forcing her to observe it closely. The idea got triggered when a drop of water fell on his timepiece’s crystal over the date window, while he was washing his hands in the bathroom.
Has the Datejust Been Evolving?
The first Datejust (Ref. 4467) was initially offered in yellow gold, featuring the chronometer-certified, self-winding Caliber A295, set in a nuanced aesthetic characteristic of all Datejust models, notably the fluted bezel and a clean, sophisticated dial with triangular indexes.
It was noticed in the earliest models that used a bright red numerical font specifically to feature the date. This element was eventually abandoned as the Cyclops lens became a featured presence throughout the line.
The Datejust has been omnipresent, a mainstay in the Rolex collection ever since. Maintaining the 36mm case size, showcasing the latest technical upgrades, and reinventing to more advanced movements over the years. Rolex quite masterfully embraces its technological savoir-faire.
In 2009, Rolex brought to the fore the legendary Datejust II (since superseded by the Datejust 41 in 2016), epitomizing Swiss artisanal brilliance, timeless sophistication, and finesse, with an expanded case size of 41mm and Rolex’s in-house, COSC-certified perpetual Caliber 3136 inside its 100-meter water-resistant case.
If you are looking to acquire a piece of history like the Datejust, contact our specialists at Jewels of NYC now. We can guide you through our curated collection of vintage and modern watches.
Best Rolex to Begin Your Collection With: Rolex Air-King (1945)
Came into existence in the same year as the Datejust, the Air-King was an eminent, rather elite member of a trio of timepieces that celebrated the accomplishments of Britain's Royal Air Force in the aftermath of celebrating the Allied victory in World War II.
The so-called “Air Series” quintessentially consisted of two major models that have long been discontinued, the Air-Giant and Air-Tiger, with the one that is still being continued being the Air-King.
Despite being the oldest model produced, the Air-King has continued to leave its mark in the star-studded Rolex lineup, yet remains an underrated presence, with collectors never having cherished a giant-sized piece of Rolex’s creation.
It has not been as popular or in demand as the Swiss watch giants, including the Daytona, Submariner, GMT-Master, and others. Air-King is still one of the most collectible watches, deeply loved and appreciated as an entry-level Rolex, thanks to its history and affordable price.
Design Features of the Air-King
The Air-King, designed to champion the spirit of piloting and “to honor the pioneers of aviation,” has undergone several design evolutions throughout its history. The original model’s 34mm case, cream-colored dial, and the enduring legacy of manual-wind movement would ultimately be replaced by the now-familiar design, reshaped in 2016.
The momentous revamp concluded a black dial with a 60-minute scale and inverted triangle at the 12 o’clock/60-minute position (a feature of historical pilots’ watches); large 3, 6, and 9 Arabic numerals at their respective positions; and a retro-font “Air-King” logo slightly below the center of the “Mercedes”-style handset.
In 2022, Rolex continued modernizing the Air-King. The 40mm silhouette elegantly boasts crown guards that offer increased robustness and durability, and its incredible design consistency holds the perfect camaraderie with its siblings in Rolex’s Professional line.
An upgraded movement, the automatic, in-house Caliber 3230, and most notably the double-digit “05” applied numeral on the dial’s scale to replace the single-digit “5” that preceded it. Introducing a series of intricate design updates with a greater emphasis on details, such as refined incorporations, streamlined the look even more.
Best Rolex for Outdoor Adventurers: Rolex Explorer (1953)
Known for capturing the essence of the sporty, flamboyant, and playful appeal, the Rolex Explorer has become the heartbeat of every avid explorer. It is chiefly remembered as the watch worn by the legendary Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay during their historic expedition to the peak of Mount Everest in 1953. It was the same year the watch debuted.
The model and its aesthetic roots trace back even further: the 5020 “Ovettone” series of watches, manufactured by Rolex in the 1940s. The nickname “Ovettone,” Italian for “big egg,” referred to those watches’ monobloc Oyster cases, which appeared gigantic compared to the usual watch silhouette.
What added to a nuanced aesthetic and a noticeable presence was the grandeur of domed casebacks (called “bubbleback” and necessitated by the thickness of the perpetual movement inside them at the time) and crystals.
The one succeeding it is the 6298 series, featuring three-part cases, carefully replacing the monobloc ones, thereby defining the prototypical modern Rolex Explorer. This piece of pure class from Rolex, which actually supported Hilary and Norgay’s mission, was the “pre-Explorer” Ref. 6098, equipped with the sophisticated yet contemporary automatic Caliber A296.
The global fame that the historic summit garnered proved pivotal in streamlining their strategic advertising, providing the marketing juice needed to mark the exceptional performance and deliverability that underscored the immense success under challenging conditions of the launch of the mountaineering-themed watch, Ref. 6350, the first “official” Rolex Explorer.
The Explorer- The “Real” James Bond Watch
The model preceded the Ref. 6150, not having ‘‘Explorer’’ displayed on the dial, which, however, not just completely resonated but pictured the emblematic Explorer dial layout: inverted triangle at 12 o’clock, numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, Mercedes-style hour hand and pencil-shaped minute hand, and bar indexes at the other hour positions. The steel cases measured about 36mm, characteristic of those watches carried on the Everest expedition.
The Ref. 1016, the release following shortly thereafter, has been the longest-lasting of the Explorer references. Having endured decades of dedicated effort, the watch has been worn by many influential personalities, including James Bond creator Ian Fleming. In fact, that reference is considered by some Bond nerds to be the “real” James Bond Rolex.
Ready to begin with your own adventure with a luxury watch? Schedule a call with our experts at Jewels of NYC to discuss finding the perfect Explorer for your wrist.
Top Rolex Watch for Divers: Rolex Submariner(1953)
Made to suit the needs of professional mariners, the quintessential Rolex Submariner celebrates Rolex’s history of waterproof watches, a tribute to the craft of making. The dive watch category is far too rich to be summed up in a few lines.
No single luxury watch treads the history so minutely and beautifully as the Rolex Submariner. Draped in their timeless horological traditions, embodying the Swiss watchmaking finesse, the dive watch classic assimilates the notable legacy most eloquently.
Treading the line between the tool watch and luxury totem most deftly compared to any other watch in its domain and of its stature. Like the other talismanic Rolex collections, the trailblazing Rolex Submariner primarily responded to adaptations in consumer demand introduced by the cultural shift.
After World War II, diving took center stage, becoming a recreational practice accustomed to modern demands and evolving into a commercial pursuit, no longer restricted to a necessary skill set in military and covert operations.
Jacques Cousteau’s historic invention of the Aqualung enabled a new generation of recreational divers to stay underwater longer. The demands of a unique watch that could keep the diver aware of the air supply.
Can the Submariner Go Deep?
Revolutionizing luxury watchmaking, Rolex, a brand that had already set huge milestones by pioneering the waterproof Oyster Case, built the first military-issued dive watch for the Italian firm Panerai in the 1930s and 1940s. The brand burst onto the scene, introducing itself as one of the first watchmakers, responding to rising demand in the seminal year of 1953.
The first Submariner was Ref. 6204, which laid the foundations and established the model's template. Exhibiting a bold, elegant, and charismatic display of an attractive 37mm steel Oyster case, black dial with inverted triangle at 12 o’clock, alternating circle, bar indexes at the hour markers, and a unidirectionally rotating bezel calibrated on a 60-minute scale.
The Submariner announced its resounding success, trumpeted as the first wristwatch waterproof up to 100 meters. Consequent references, including the Ref. 6205, added the familiar Mercedes handset, featuring greater durability and robustness, capable of withstanding 200 to 300m, becoming the defining standard for the models of today.
But could you ever have imagined your Submariner to become stouter, robust, pushing your limits beyond imaginable? Rolex introduced a much bulkier, heavy-duty version, the Sea-Dweller, in 1971, with a more substantial wrist presence and a more sophisticated design for professional divers. Its case was depth-tested to an astounding 610 meters and fitted with an automatic helium-release valve to aid decompression.
Wondering how deep the Sea-Dweller can go? It can hit right at the bottom with a bone-crushing height of 1200m. A comparatively recent advancement, i.e., the Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller, since its inception in 2008, has left even this record in shambles, featuring unparalleled water-resistance of approximately 3900m.
Best Rolex GMT-Master (1954): Rolex Watch for Enthusiastic Global Travelers
Similar to the iconic Submariner that preceded it, the trendsetting Rolex GMT-Master was a trailblazing and genre-defining watch. The original GMT-Master (Ref. 6542, which actually hit like a storm, challenging the market in 1955) became the most-followed global phenomenon in no time.
This was the first watch to combine incredible technical prowess and design innovation to efficiently and effectively track time in two distinct time zones—all thanks to a subtle edition of a central 24-hour hand and a bidirectional rotating 24-hour bezel.
The initials that are depicted in the watch’s name signify “Greenwich Mean Time,” an overarching system of global timekeeping that is based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London.Most importantly, from the perspective of aviation history, the watch’s dual-time functionality was a unique creation, developed in close coordination with the watch’s intended users: Pan American Airlines pilots.
Deemed a great success, a golden period of commercial aviation, the remarkable rise in the number of international flights sparked the desire for a tool watch, enabling the pilot to track time, including his hometown or the one he was travelling to, anywhere in the world.
Famous GMT-Master bezels?
With diversified choices coming to the fore and other watch manufacturers devising various methods to display and track multiple time zones, it was Rolex’s impactful and enduring designs that delivered the most precise results.
The first-generation GMT-Master Ref. 6452 featured a bi-directional bezel, graduated to 24 hours and partitioned into equal segments of red and blue. A covertly done, subtle, and eye-catching visual shorthand, identifying the day and nighttime hours featured on the 24-hour scale.
This red-and-blue “Pepsi” bezel is certainly a harbinger of other globally renowned colorways, contributing to the iconic pop-culture nicknames. Some prominent ones could be the iconic red-and-black “Coke” bezel on the Ref. 16760 in 1983 and the blue-and-black “Batman” bezel of the Ref. 116710BLNR in 2013.
With the former representing the first generation of GMT-Master II, elegantly flaunting an independently adjustable GMT hand coupled with the rotating GMT bezel, remaining flexible for the third time zone.
Seeking the enduring legacy, rich heritage, and timeless artistry of a Pepsi, Coke, or Batman bezel? Jewels of NYC is your destination for premium pre-owned luxury. Schedule a meeting with us in the Diamond District to view our inventory.
Top Rolex Models for Your Conferences: Rolex Day-Date “President” (1956)
The Rolex Day-Date, introduced in 1956, gracing the stage with Ref. 6510 and 6511, featured as the first wristwatch to have displayed both the date (in the now-familiar 3 o’clock position under the Cyclops lens) and the current day of the week (in a curved window above the Rolex logo at 12 o’clock).
The Day-Date’s 36mm gold Oyster case featured a fluted bezel, symbolic of its charismatic and stylistic predecessor, the quintessential Datejust, and housed the automatic Caliber 1055. As of today, the model is available in two prominent sizes, including 36mm and 40mm.
The former carries the spirit of the original, while the latter is designed to guarantee a substantial, noticeable wrist presence; however, the 40mm size still has a modest display compared to larger 41mm Day-Date II models that were discontinued in 2015.
The "President"- Why?
The Day-Date, revered for its elite stature, flamboyant appeal, and resplendence, is associated with luxury, putting on a show, and ensuring a display of dominance and versatility with every model it creates. Associated with legendary figures, including celebrities, visionaries, and world leaders, the “President” carves out its own place.
The “President,” a nickname the model began earning as early as the 1960s, when the watch garlanded the wrists of President Lyndon B. Johnson, who wore one regularly in the office. The watch also claims to have been associated with a historical, if somewhat scandalous, connection to LBJ’s predecessor, John F. Kennedy, who was apparently given one by his mistress, actress Marilyn Monroe.
Besides being attributed to heads of state, the “President” had come to be a badge of luxury and sophistication, specifically the one that signified a dominant, powerful presence. In his role as mob chieftain Tony Soprano on the HBO series “The Sopranos, " actor James Gandolfini famously sported a gold Day-Date.”
Their durable three-link bracelet, which first appeared on the original Day-Date, bears the nickname President, reserved for Day-Date models and selected ladies’ Datejust models.
Best Rolex Watch for Science Aficionados: Rolex Milgauss (1956)
In diving and air travel, it was not just professional mariners, divers, adventurers, and pilots who were gaining prominence during the 1950s. Still, a larger share of people was opting for different occupations, primarily those that would regularly expose professionals, including researchers, scientists, and technicians, to strong magnetic fields.
For anyone familiar with the working of a mechanical watch, they most certainly know for a fact that magnetism is an adversary, challenging the watch’s ability to function reliably. In 1956, Rolex accepted the challenge of producing a watch that could be relied upon in situations where a persistent magnetic field was present.
The release of the first Milguass that featured the signature innovation was a miniature magnetic field, known as the “Faraday Cage,” featuring a ferromagnetic material, which was placed inside the case, adequately fit to guard against movement, protecting it from the strong effects of magnetic fields.
The name represents the contraction of “mille gauss”—mille being “1,000” in French, gauss being the international unit of measure for magnetic field strength, gauging the watch’s unparalleled levels of magnetic resistance.
The Rolex Milgauss became a popular presence amongst scientists and researchers of the Atomic Age; some prominent figures included those working at Switzerland’s European Organization for Nuclear Research (CERN).
Top Rolex Watch for a Road Trip: Rolex Cosmograph Daytona (1963)
Rolex established a deep-rooted connection to the world of motorsport legends and auto racing.
British racing driver Sir Malcolm Campbell wore Rolexes on and off the track throughout his storied career. Achieving a monumental feat in the year 1935, the racer set a new world speed record in his famous Campbell-Railton Bluebird at Florida’s Daytona Beach.
Daytona undoubtedly became a host to automobile racing, and in 1959, while constructing the Daytona International Speedway, the inaugural running of the Daytona 500 stock car race also took place.
In 1962, Rolex officially held the crown, achieving a historic feat by becoming the official timekeeper of the Daytona 500. The release of Ref. 6239 Cosmograph, nicknamed the “Daytona,” the following year, cemented its status as a much-coveted racing-inspired chronograph watch.
The Costing of a Paul Newman Daytona
Despite already having a star-studded lineup, the collection's extravagant power and stature were due to its association with the legendary actor Paul Newman, who added to the model’s mass appeal.
The veteran actor switched careers and did quite well in his second career. Embarking upon a successful racing career, it proved a fruitful venture after doing a fabulous job in the cult movie titled Winning.
The model he wore, which was therefore nicknamed after him, was one of the rarest collectible watches in the pre-owned market. Bedazzling with an off-white-and-black “panda” dial layout, the intricate square-tipped hashmarks, and the Art-Deco-inspired design were a spectacle.
If you are looking for rare models like the Daytona, Jewels of NYC specializes in sourcing exquisite ones. Call now to speak with our team about adding a high-performance chronograph to your collection.
Top Rolex for Sailors: Rolex Yacht-Master (1992)
Three years after the Daytona's debut, before Rolex introduced a new model, the Oyster Perpetual was added to Rolex’s armada of sporty-luxury watches. The original Yacht-Master launched in 1992, laying the foundations of the only Rolex watch family from the 1990s.
Primarily offered in yellow gold (Ref. 16628), the Yacht-Master proved quite similar to the Submariner. The two could be compared on their geometric hour markers, Mercedes hands, screw-down crown, and Oyster-style case and bracelet.
The rotating bezel has been carved luxuriously, set in the same gold case, and the bracelet is garlanded with a relief-engraved scale, thus signifying that this nautically-inspired model is more upscale than its more flamboyant, rugged, and robust sportier dive version.
The Oysterflex bracelet
The Yacht-Master has proven to have the most significant presence, notably combining several firsts specifically for the brand in 2015. The Ref. 116655 was the first Yacht-Master to feature the aesthetic and incredibly compatible proprietary rose-gold alloy known as Everose gold. The bezel was executed in black-cerachrom, the brand’s innate extra-hard, corrosion-resistant ceramic material.
Forging a dominant presence, the first Rolex watch to be mounted on the Oysterflex bracelet, with its exterior resembling a nuanced black rubber strap and its interior equipped with a patented “longitudinal cushion” system.
Standing the test of time, one-of-a-kind design and innovation, superior technical upgrades featuring the nickel-titanium blades inside an elastomer coating give it the suppleness and comfort of a strap and the robustness and stability of a bracelet.
Start Your Rolex Journey Today
Whether you are drawn to the depths of the ocean with a Submariner or the heights of Everest with an Explorer, each Rolex tells a story. At Jewels of NYC, we are dedicated to helping you find the next chapter of your story. Located in the heart of New York City's Diamond District, we offer a personalized experience tailored to your unique taste.
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